AN UNEXPECTED FAREWELL

Shooting down the road back to Visp from Saas Fee at over 45 MPH, I passed through a tunnel. Small slats in the wall made slivers of light on the asphalt. The light beams danced in the cool morning air. They were projected through a waterfall rushing over the tunnel down to the river 300 meters below. 

Today wasn't supposed to be my last day in Switzerland. Although I try to roll with as little plans as possible, I figured I had three days ride to Zurich before I took a train to Germany. But here I am, on a train bound to Berlin. 

The morning was amazing. I woke up, packed up and ate as many calories as I could at the buffet. I was riding near a 100 miles with 2 big passes along the way. I paid my dues (two nights at a fantasy hotel or $30) and said my goodbyes. I went down the mountain, all 38 kilometers of it. The first 30 K I was the only person headed downhill. The weather was perfect, and I was reminded once again of how awesome Switzerland's alps are. 

On the road to Brig, I thought about luxury. I was constantly cycling to the next bit of free housing or complementary meal. Between destinations I camped. In Europe camping isn't the opposite of luxury but it's damn close. I think I'm about as comfortable as one person can be in a tent, but a room with a bed is so much better. I suppose I could go all the way and camp every night regardless, but that experience would be too limiting in itself. Trains are another luxury on my journey. I could get to Berlin on my bike in a week and a bit. Today I'm doing it in 10 hours. 

After Brig was more pleasant riding. Then things started getting vertical. I was hitting 10% grades before noon. 

I took note of the lack of road cyclists coming my way. Plenty of sweaty mountain bikers pumping up and down on huge shock absorbers, but no road bikes like mine. I started to get really worried when my signposted road cycling route suddenly turned to gravel. The asphalt came back only to disappear again. I was scared. Suddenly I turned a corner and there was an elaborate cobblestone road so steep I had to get off my bike. An old couple with hiking poles turned to watch the defeated man push his bike up the rocky path. 

It was the most beautiful and dangerous riding I've done. I took some of the flat dirt sections well, but I simply didn't have big enough gears to take the steep hills. I got to a bridge and an Italian man let me know the worst was yet to come. After pushing Ginger up 2 K of dirt I made it to the paved road. I cursed the makers of my Swiss map. Upon further examination, I saw there were tiny mountain bike trail signs along the trail, even though it was displayed as a road bike route. I was furious, not only at the incompetence of all Swiss map makers, but also because I had obliterated my testicles on my final mountain bike turn of the day. 

I was happy to be on asphalt again. I passed cows with such swollen udders that I wanted to pull over and fill my empty bottles with their unpasturized milk. 

The rest of the ride was no cake walk. Rain clouds loomed overhead, and I could smell a storm coming. A considerable headwind had kicked up. I was also hungry. Lucky for me it was Sunday and all markets were closed. I could spend $30 on a mediocre Swiss lunch. I thought about it. I kept on hearing Mr. Wirther say the phrase 'typical Swiss' in my head. I ended up eating all of the 8 bread rolls I took from his hotel buffet.

Then the rain really kicked up and I pondered camping for the night. It was too early. I was in a town where a little train went through a mountain. I took the little train and there was no rain on the other side. Then downhill to where I planned to camp. On a whim I stopped in the train station and jokingly asked if I could get a train to Berlin. They said yes. So I did it. I won't talk about money, but I was relieved to be leaving a nation where money evaporates like water. Had I rode to Zurich, I would have spent just as much camping and eating. Plus I had friends in Berlin. Friends from New York. Am I ready to interact with real people again? I really can't say. 

The night train is great. I almost missed it because I took a shower in the Zurich train station. Am I trying to spend the rest of my Swiss Francs? Absolutely. I had dinner in the dining car next to a very regal Italian mother and son who chew with their mouths wide open. This is why I bought ear plugs. 


ALoNE